Guided Mt Huber today (Aug 15) up and down the Huber Ledges. Clear night and blue sky day made for great conditions. Still a lot of snow up high from last weeks storms (Hungabee and Biddle are pretty white) but the Huber Ledges are snow free. Beware of slippery verglass where you cross the gullies. Anything that looks wet was actually thin ice.
The storm snow has repaired the final ice face providing 20cm of supportive snow over the ice allowing for good steps with ice screw anchors (you have to dig down for the ice though). The bergshrund is also in good shape providing several options on the left side for crossing. Some breakable crust (2cm melt-freeze crust over 20-30cm of storm snow) on the glacier making for punchy trail breaking.
Aidan Millar (11 years old) has spent every summer of his life under the bulk of Huber. This was his first time climbing it. Maybe Mt Victoria next when he is 12. I was impressed by his strength as we managed the climb up and down in 9 1/2 hours. Good job Aidan! Also with us was his dad, Bruce (owner/manager of the lodge), and his nephew, Eric.